When DIY Makes Sense
RV technicians charge $100–$150 per hour plus parts, with minimum service call fees. A diagnostic visit for a simple issue can run $200–$400 before any repair work. Many common RV appliance failures have straightforward DIY fixes — a dirty thermocouple, a tripped reset button, a clogged pilot assembly — that take 15–30 minutes and cost almost nothing.
This guide covers the most common RV appliance problems and their usual causes. Always verify the repair is within your comfort level and turn off propane, electricity, and water before working on any system. For gas line repairs, CO hazards, or complex electrical work, use a professional.
Refrigerator Won't Cool (Absorption Fridge)
Most RV refrigerators are absorption-style (Dometic, Norcold) — they use a heat source (propane flame or 120V electric element) to drive a chemical cooling cycle rather than a compressor. Common failures:
Not level: Absorption fridges must be within 3 degrees of level to function. If the fridge is warm and you've been parked on a slope, level the RV first and wait 2–4 hours for cooling to resume.
No propane flame: Check that the gas valve is open, check propane tank levels (both tanks if you have two), and verify the igniter is sparking. Clean the burner orifice with compressed air if it won't light. A yellow or weak flame indicates contamination or low pressure.
No 120V heat (electric mode): Test the 120V element with a multimeter. The heating element is a common failure point and is replaceable (typically $30–$60). Check the fuse and circuit breaker for the fridge circuit first.
Cooling unit failure: If the ammonia smell is present or the yellow corrosion powder appears at the back of the fridge, the cooling unit has failed. This is a major repair ($400–$700 for a replacement unit) — some RVers replace the entire absorption fridge with a 12V compressor fridge at this point.
Water Heater Won't Light
Most RV water heaters (Atwood/Dometic, Suburban) use propane with either a manual pilot or DSI (direct spark ignition). Common fixes:
- Tripped high-limit switch: There's a reset button on the outside access panel (usually a small red button). Press to reset — if it trips again immediately, there's an underlying issue (thermostat failure, element failure).
- Dirty thermocouple (pilot models): The thermocouple is a small metal probe in the pilot flame. Clean with fine sandpaper if it won't hold the pilot open. Replacement thermocouples are $10–$20.
- DSI ignition board failure: If the burner ignites but won't stay lit, or won't ignite at all on a DSI model, the circuit board is often the culprit. Replacement boards are $40–$80 and are a DIY repair.
- Electrode gap: The electrode that creates the ignition spark should be 1/8" from the burner. Clean with fine sandpaper and adjust gap if the spark is weak.
Air Conditioner Not Cooling
Dirty filters: RV AC filters should be cleaned every 2 weeks during heavy use. A clogged filter dramatically reduces cooling capacity. Remove, wash with water, dry, reinstall.
Dirty evaporator coils: If filters are clean but cooling is poor, the evaporator coils may be iced over (from running at low temperatures or with poor airflow) or coated with dirt. Turn off the AC and allow ice to melt, then clean coils gently with a soft brush.
Refrigerant leak: If the unit runs but produces no cold air at all, the refrigerant may have leaked. This requires professional service — refrigerant charging is not DIY-appropriate.
Capacitor failure: The start capacitor can fail and prevent the compressor from starting, producing a humming sound. Capacitors are cheap ($15–$30) but require discharging before handling — a shock hazard. DIY if comfortable with electrical work; otherwise, service call.
Furnace Won't Start
RV furnaces (Atwood, Suburban, Duo-Therm) are propane-powered with an electric blower and DSI ignition. Most failures:
- Low battery voltage: The furnace blower requires significant 12V power. A battery below 12.0V may not run the blower properly. Charge the batteries before troubleshooting other causes.
- Sail switch stuck: A small flap inside the furnace assembly that confirms airflow before ignition. If stuck closed, the furnace won't fire. Access requires removing the furnace cover — a sail switch is a $10 part.
- Clogged combustion tube: Insects (especially wasps and mud daubers) love to nest in the furnace exhaust/intake tube during storage. Inspect and clean the external vent before the first use each season.
- Circuit board failure: The DSI circuit board controls ignition sequence. Board failure typically presents as a spark but no flame, or no spark at all. Replacement boards are $60–$120.
Related: RV maintenance checklist · RV generator maintenance · RV winterization guide
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